FBA – Bodice with bust dart

FBA= Full body adjustment

How do I know that an FBA is necessary ?

Using our dress pattern Janis, I will show you how to make an FBA with a bust dart:

First, the bust point on the front piece needs to be determined. Either by measuring with a tape measure or by placing the sewing pattern on your upper body. Make sure your sewing pattern is on your center front and shoulder and mark the highest point on your chest. This is different for each bust but for many women it is at the height of the nipples .

Starting from the armhole, a point is made at the first third, which is then connected to the bust point. Alternatively, you can use the first armhole notch on the pattern and draw a straight line from there to the bust point. From the bust point, you then draw a straight vertical line parallel to the center front to the hem. Connect the center of the dart to the bust point and from the bust point draw a horizontal line to the neckline.

Draw the seam allowance 1.5 cm along the armhole at the first third. Cut the vertical line from the bottom to just before the seam allowance at the armhole. Next, cut the line from the dart center to just before the bust point.

Now pull your sewing pattern apart at the bust point as far as you need the width. The vertical line should be straight from the bust point to the bottom waist seam which will automatically make the dart larger. To adjust the missing length, cut the horizontal line from the bust point to the neckline .

Now push the trimmed part down parallel in the front center until it is at the same height as the side part. Redraw the neckline. The side bust dart is redrawn, its tip is 3 cm from the bust point.

In order for the bodice front to fit along with the front skirt of the dress, the added width is converted into a dart. For this, divide the added width by 2, mark the result once on the bottom right and left at the vertical line of the bust point and draw a dart. The tip of the dart is 3 cm below the bust point .

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