SBA – Bodice with a bust dart

SBA=Small body adjustment

Using our dress pattern Janis, I will show you how to make an SBA with a bust dart:

First, the bust point on the front piece needs to be determined. Either by measuring with a tape measure or by placing the sewing pattern on your upper body. Make sure your sewing pattern is on your center front and shoulder and mark the highest point on your chest. This is different for each bust but for many women it is at the height of the nipples .

Starting from the armhole, a point is made at the first third, which is then connected to the bust point. Alternatively, you can use the first armhole notch on the pattern and draw a straight line from there to the bust point. From the bust point, you then draw a straight vertical line parallel to the center front to the hem. Connect the center of the dart to the bust point and from the bust center draw a horizontal line to the neckline.

Draw the seam allowance 1.5 cm along the armhole at the first third. Cut the vertical line from the bottom to just before the seam allowance at the armhole. Next, cut the line from the dart center to just before the bust point.

At the bust point, slide the side piece together as much as you want to take away from the width. Make sure that the two pieces don’t overlap at the bottom, otherwise it won’t fit at the front skirt of the dress. The dart will automatically become smaller or, if necessary, can be closed completely. To adjust the length, cut the horizontal line from the bust point to the neckline.

The middle front piece is pushed up in parallel until it is at the same height as the side piece. The resulting corner at the bottom must be smoothed out and the neckline redrawn. If the dart is still present, it must be redrawn.  The tip is 3 cm from the bust point .

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