This sewing pattern adjustment is made for a V-neck that extends below the bust, such as our sewing pattern Grace (wrap jumpsuit) or Janis (dress). If the top fits well but doesn’t sit flat at the neckline on the bust, you can adjust it on the sewing pattern.
Shorten neckline
The neckline is shortened when it is too long. You can tell by the way that the neckline is gapping or slightly wavy along the chest area. To make it sit nice and flat, you can tuck the excess fabric in the form of a dart.
Pin the excess fabric together at the neckline in the form of a dart and determine the exact excess.
Draw a horizontal line from the bust point to the neckline (A). From this line on, go up and mark the desired amount that needs to be shortened (B).
Draw a straight line from line B that goes under the bust to the side seam and connect it with line A at the neckline. Cut out the dart and glue the two resulting parts together again. Make sure that the side seam remains unchanged (C).
At last, the neckline has to be redrawn again.
Extend neckline
Too little fabric on the neckline can be indicated by the fact that the neckline tightens and sometimes even pops open. Another indicator is that the top pulls up in the dividing seam. Please note that if the neckline pops up slightly, sewing a small snap on by hand will easily fix the problem.
Draw a horizontal line from the bust point to the neckline (A). Afterwards, draw a straight line from the neckline to the side seam
and trim it (B).
Firstly, the two separated parts have to be put together again at the side seam (C). Then the lower separated part in the cutout has to be pushed down as far as it is to be extended in the end (D). Afterwards, the neckline must be redrawn
